Ï The esthetics of the national costume is reflected the evolution of the cultural traditions of the Turkmen people
mail-icon
altynasyr.newspaper@sanly.tm
EN RU TK

The esthetics of the national costume is reflected the evolution of the cultural traditions of the Turkmen people

view-icon 926
A rich collection of exponents reflecting the long history of the Turkmen people are represented in the country's museums. Especially it is well represented elements of the national costume. The history of the national costume from ancient times to the present day is the mirror, which reflects the aesthetic views, mental identity, spirit of time and lifestyle, every new generation of the Turkmens are contributed the national costume, specific features of its era.


The excavations of ancient settlements, artifacts of various civilizations flourishing in Turkmenistan allow us to look at the wonderful world of material culture - a unique formation of our rich heritage.

The embodiment of beauty of the blooming nature is ornamental sophistication of the Turkmen national dress. Spring revives an ancient land, the fields are covered by the picturesque floral carpet, the emerald color has become the outline of mountain massive... desert - so alive and vibrant with moving loose dunes and flexible silhouettes of haloxylon - sets new incentives to the skilled workers. All national arts and crafts were subordinated to the harmonious outlook of the Turkmen women artists creating magnificent carpets, clothing, and household items.


The color palette is dominated by cherry-red color inherent to the Turkmen carpets, and geometric ornament, laconic in color scheme and not violates the integrity of composite costume ensemble.

Turkmen craftswomen created original fabric having met national tastes and traditional needs. Silk fabric "keteni", the most common and popular among the people, has different shades of red, green, yellow, and purple. At the moment, a beautiful dress made of “keteni” is sewed embroidery collar piece, cuffs and neckline.


Usually embroidery patterns are made by a combination of three colors: if there is red background, then the embroidery should be black, white and yellow. By the way, the combination of colors can be traced in the monuments of culture Djeytun (VI centuries of BC) and preserved today in the carpets, felt mats and clothes Turkmen.


Natural motifs of ornamentation have mainly geometrized nature which is going back to centuries and preserved up to our time: "wave" zigzags, the figure in the form of an anchor, dating back to the Parthian tradition, S-shaped signs and small chess grid - a medieval, triangular shape - ornamentation archaic vessels from era of the tribal system, images of birds, wild and domestic animals - in the pattern transferred most parts of the body: legs, claws, eyes, sometimes just their schematic images. One of the ancient ornamental motifs have become widespread - this image of animal horns - "gochak". Also we used floral designs "chigildem" and "gulchinar" - stylized images of tree leaves, tulips flowers. There are different embroidery techniques: "keshde", "Haym," "chigme", "Ilm", "Kojima", "Orama".

In the women's suit collar and a vertical section of the dress are covered with embroidery. Particularly rich "painted" women’s robes covering head - "chyrpy" and "kurta" are decorated with fringe headscarf for married women - "gynach" and headdress "tahya" for maiden and men.


It is decorated with embroidery the men's suit, the gown "Don", the shirt collar, but the decoration is more restrained. Currently, it continues the tradition of one of the oldest crafts - knitting. Knitting, as in the past, is socks. Socks are preserved a distinct traditional feature.

An integral element of the national costume is the jewelry - traditionally silver inlaid with cornelian incrustations harmoniously fit with the red dress background. Festive female gown adorned medalon- "chapraz" which is hard-framed by the figural pendants. Children silver ornaments were decorated with necklace, beads, cowrie shells. They were worn on the neck, hands, feet, crowned with a headdress and sewn on clothes.


Teke, salor and saryk jewelers (zergers) use an engraved gold-plated ornament. The ornaments are used zoomorphic and floral motifs: "gushgozi" - bird eye, "yylanyzy" - snake trail. Jewelers of Amu-Darya Turkmens do not cover their product with the gilting. In Yomud ornaments it is used turquoise and stamped ornament.


The colorful, richly ornamented women's national costume is honored by the Turkmen women of fashion in our days. Embroidery "yaka" is taking place the most top rankings in popularity among women of all ages. The demanded capes "kurta" and "chyrpy" is high among brides and young women. Students and schoolchildren are wearing tahya, diluting the subtly eclecticism of laconic business style. Older people prefer comfortable and practical national dresses and gowns, "Don", "koynek", "chavyt", decorated with embroidery.

Thus, the ornamental symbolism and the decorations of national dress, is the artistic embodiment of mental identity. It is reflected the evolution of the cultural and aesthetic views of the Turkmen people, their tastes and historical experience and traditions.