“Quite often one can find the vine root that can be embraced only by two men and bunches of grapes with the size of two ells” – wrote Strabon in his “Geography”. Seleucid King Antiochus even ordered to surround the whole oasis with special protection wall with the length of 250 kilometers.
Since the beginning of time, Merv was the centre of this thriving region. Its fortresses Erk-Kala, Gyaur Kala, Soutan Kala, Abdullhan-Kala Bayramalihan-Kala appeared one after another. But if one city perished slowly, then the other one died suddenly from intestine wars and forays of the neighbouring countries. The silence of the eternity lies on guttered walls, sometimes reaching 6 – 7 meters in width, and on the hills, reminding with the sadness on once majestic structures.
From antiquity until nowadays, the name of the city changed. In sacred book of Zoroastrians “Avesta” it is mentioned as Mouru, in Behistun inscription - under the name of “Margush country”, Greco-Roman authors called it Margiana. In medieval Persian and Arabic manuscripts, it was called Maru or Merv. At the same time, the city got special epithet “Shahyjan”, which is literally translated as “Soul of the kings”. In the period of medieval prosperity, it was one of the greatest cities in the world with population more than million people and won fame of “the city, the world is rest upon”.
The history of Ancient Merv symbolizes the image of mythological bird Phoenix that every time revived from the ashes. The age of ancient Merv can be identified rather relatively, as archaeological finds prove that oasis was inhabited long before existence of Erk-Kala aged approximately 2500 years. The remains of fortress walls with the height of 25 – 29 meters with clearly cut out towers and large slope remind about it. «Blessed region” this is how this land was called in the sacred book “Avesta”. Excellent bread, best raisins, dried melons, and the softest in the East cotton were exported from there.
In the IV century, BC Margush and whole Margiana was conquered by the army of Alexander Makedonian and the city became called Alexandria Margiana. After the death of the commander, this land entered the Seleucid Empire and its ruler Antiochus built the strongest fortress Antioch Margiana that remains rest within Gyaur-Kala boundaries. Everything was like from magic giants, the walls with height of 30 and width of 16 meters.
In the middle of III century BC, at the place of Antioch Margiana, when the region was under Parthian subordination, the new stronger 230 kilometres long, fortified wall was built there; more than 100 towers rose above its 6 meters width. Ancient Merv reached the high level of progress in the I-II centuries AC and succeeded until the first half of the III century AC during Sassanid rule. Even by the scale of the XXI century, it was the biggest city of Central Asia. The highest peak of its progress falls on XI – XII centuries, when the city became the capital of the Great Seljuks. Fortified wall known nowadays as Soultan-Kala was built according to the Melik-shakh order. That was exactly the period when the unique architectural works, which gave the ground to include Ancient Merv in UNESO World Heritage List, was risen.
How beautiful is Merv, the shelter of the Kings!
How beautiful is Merv, where flower garden springs!
How beautiful is Merv in winter and summer heat!
It is as beautiful in spring as in fall!
Who saw Merv, who settled in Merv,
Will he find happiness in another city!
And if one’s beloved lives in Merv,
The earth is full of woes without it!
The trees are paradise, the fruits – more charming than the houries,
The flowers are as the sun shines brightly in azure…
Wrote Persian poet Fahr ad-din Asad (Gorgani) in his poem “Vis and Ramin”.
But history seemed to be hurrying to its final act. In 1153, Merv was captured and brutally plundered by the nomadic Guzes. The city was partially restored when it entered the Khwarazm Shah State. But in 1221 Merv fell a pray of even more destructive invasion – that was the army of Genghis Khan. Almost all Merv’s inhabitants were killed in that battle. After that, many kings tried to restore the city but it could never reach its previous richness and magnificence.
Just partially, emir Timur’s son Shakhrukh rebuilt Merv 200 years after Mongolian invasion. During his time, due to the problems with water supply, the city was moved to the new place and its ruins are known as Abdulkhan-Kala nowadays. Another Timurids Mirza Sanjar expanded Merv and this territory received the name of Bayramalikhan-Kala.
Throughout next few centuries, violent fight went on, the city incurred raids and invasions either one ruler or another. In 1882, the Turkmens finally ousted the last conquerors the Bukharians and built their own fortress at rather distance from Bayramalikhan-Kala at new banks of the Murgab River. Thus the foundation of new city, currently Mary, territorially not connected with ancient settlements of Merv, was started. The phenomenon of Merv, the ancient city recognized by UNESCO World Heritage, closely associated with the first irrigation systems of the Bronze Age. Close proximity of the Murgab River and correct planning of irrigation system as well as the urge of Sultans to settle on Great Silk Road, later on favoured to construction of largest trade city that became one of the cultural centres of Central Asia. Today the old Merv is grandiose archaeological reserve.
Big Gyz-Kala
This name literally means “girl’s mansion” Gyz-Kala is typical example of palace castle of the local nobility of the early medieval. The mansion represents internal square yard with the rooms on two levels around it. All facades are mounted with corrugated walls.
The scientist cannot tell for sure about exact date of building of “girl’s fortress”. That is why every archaeological find becomes a desired artefact that slightly opens the veil of mystery. One of such unique finds was discovered in 2012 during archaeological excavations. It was female seal ring in the shape of a flower lily or tulip and cosmetic spade made in the form of sculptured image of goddess of water and fertility. Roundish face of the woman are framed with the hairs put together in a bunch on the head crown. The light cloak with the pleats on the belly is thrown over long dress. There is something resembling ear of crops or tree bunch in goddess’s left hand clasped to her breast. The image of the goddess judging by the luxury of her dress is close to iconography of Zoroastrian Anahit. “You can always see her, Ardvisuru Anahit, in the appearance of beautiful girl, strong, slim, girded, slender, and noble”, - written in Avesta.
Anahit from Merv serves as some kind of personal icon to whom her proprietress addressed for help and protection. The ring over the head indicates that the amulet was worn as a pendant or breast adornment. At the same time this was daily necessity item, the spade was an ear pick.
This find as if confirms the appropriateness of traditionally Turkmen name of the fortress Gyz-Kala and fine legend about beautiful princess who was loved for her beauty and mercy.
The king’s daughter protected and tended, and her beauty and tenderness were compared with rose bud. But once the fortune-teller came to the city and prophesied her an early death. Fear and horror stroke the king then, and to save her beloved beauty daughter, he ordered to build an impregnable fortress especially for her. It seemed to him that she would be totally safe, for he thought that the trouble could come only from wild cavalry of nomads. And of course, he couldn’t even think that he would become the reason of her early death himself.
Staying in the fortress, behind impregnable walls, the princess felt lonely as her father never let her know about the mystery of gloomy predictions. Then one day, to please somehow his favourite daughter and drive her sorrow away the king sent her the basket with grapes.
But it happens so the snake crept into the basket and coiled up as a spiral hid in bunches of grapes. And when the girl stretched herself for sweet berry the snake suddenly bit princess finger as an arrow. Even the best doctors could not save her life. When the king received this sad news, he died, as he could not survive the terrible grief.
Is this true or just a fairy tale but Gyz-Kala “girl’s mansion” remains one the unique monuments of Ancient Merv, attracting the travellers by its original architectonics, and researches of the past by its historical mysteries.
His glory shines like the sun
The most famous structure of Ancient Merv is Sultan Sanjar Mausouleum. Built in the middle of XII century, it became architectural pearl of the Great Seljuk epoch, and forever glorified the name of architect Muhammed bin Atsyz Sarahs.
Mausoleum is located in the centre of the Sultan Gala settlement and sometime ago was a part of ensemble of large royal facilities – the grand mosque and the palace. This majestic beauty became a symbol of prosperity of Seljuk State. Amazing harmony and the symmetry of proportions in architecture of Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum delight everyone. It has a cubic shape with walls 27 by 27 metres that are crowned by the dome with diameter of more than 17 metres. The dome was made from two levels and this circulating air within inter-dome space, by the architect’s project, should have to provide the necessary microclimate inside the building and preserve the construction. But only internal layer remained until nowadays. Three-level through galleries in the form of alternating openwork arches run under the dome. The dome symbolized the vault of heaven and seemed to be soaring in the air. The system of structural ribs forming spatial geometrical interlacing with eight-pointed star at the top is particularly original. The interior is decorated with geometric and epigraphic paintings made by blue and red colour on the white background. In European architecture such construction appeared after 300 years in the dome ceiling of famous Florentine cathedral built by architect Philippo Brunelleschi.
Sultan Sanjar ordered to build mausoleum in the 40cyears of XII century and termed it “Dar al-ahira” that translated as “House of afterlife”. Although people relate it with later period when Turkmen-Oguz captured Merv subjected it to looting and destroying while Sultan himself was taken prisoner. Saying for 2 years as prisoner, Sultan Sanjar prayed the Almighty all those time to help him to return to Merv. And, as people say, he gave an oath that if the God would hear him, then as a sign of gratitude he would build the most magnificent structure. But as a matter of fact, the Mausoleum was built before the Sultan escaped from the prison and returned to his ravaged capital being gravely ill man and was buried in the Mausoleum.
The Mongolians plundered the grave of Sanjar trying to find supposedly hidden treasure. The marble gravestone was set in the beginning of XX century and there is actually nothing buried in the grave. The remains of Sultan was reburied in unknown place during Mongolian invasion.
The history of Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum associated with a beautiful legend. It says that once the Sultan dreamt a beautiful peri and he felt in love with her. Having lost peace and sleepover, the Sultan decided to win her hand and heart by all means. But she remained adamant. After numerous persuasions, the heavenly beauty agreed but laid down 3 terms: never watch her brushing her hair, never watch her feet and never embrace her. Shall the Sultan breach the terms she would leave him forever, peri said.
The Sultan in love for sure agreed for everything to contemplate the heaven beauty every day. They lived happy life but the Sultan was always tormented with the thoughts about strange terms set by the beauty. But one day curiosity took over the promise and the Sultan broke his word. When in the evening before going to bed, heaven peri sat at the mirror to do her hair, she took off her head, put it on the golden dish and started brushing it with golden comb. Seeing that, the Sultan cried out involuntary and the peri disappeared on the spot. For few nights the Sultan was begging her for pardon and asked to come back, promising that he would never breach the oath again. So the heaven maid forgave him. After some time, the Sultan broke the word again and during the dance, he looked at her feet and discovered that she didn’t step but soar above the ground. Angry peri flew to the sky and it seemed to be forever. The Sultan became seized in deep grief and unable to bear the anguish, asked his priests to bring his wife back by their prayers. The ecclesiastics begged and got the pardon for him by fervent prayers from the heaven peri and she returned to the Sultan. Few more happy years passed through, and again strong curiosity took over the Sultan and he embraced the heaven beauty’s waist discovering that she was immaterial. For this time, the heaven beauty could not forgive the Sultan and decided to leave him forever despite his passionate entreaties. Flying away to the sky she said: “If you want to see me you should build the highest and most beautiful mosque and leave the hole in its dome through that I will appear to you every Holly Friday. The Sultan did so. When the construction was completed, he saw his wife through the hole. Such visits recurred until the Sultan felt his imminent death. Last time the heaven beauty appeared in the dome of the mosque and threw golden comb but it stuck between the bricks. The Sultan ordered to get the comb, put it in box and insert it to the hole.
As historians say, even if Merv would disappear without a trace, if there would not be any historical data indicative of its glory but only Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar would remain, it is the best evidence of Merv’s greatness. The historical realia is that the mausoleum was under reconstruction throughout all its centuries-old history. Last residence of the great ruler was surrounded by the halo of holiness preserving it from destructive forays of conquerors but the ruthless time was washing away architectural details of the tomb and new generations of Merv’s citizens revived the monument time after time, bringing new details in its original appearance.
For many centuries, mausoleum is a place for pilgrimage of believers and attracts many tourists. The Arabic inscription on the facade of mausoleum says: "This place is ennobled by the remains of the one who was called Sulatan Sanjar from Seljuk descendants… He was as fair as Alexander the Great; he was the patron of scientists and poets and was accepted by Islamic world in the state of prosperity and happiness owing to sciences and arts".
“The great holy fire” of Kei-Mazruban
Throughout the thousands of years, the Great Silk Road ran from Asia to Europe. Tying up different countries and peoples, it connected their material and spiritual cultures, promoted dissemination of religious and philosophic ideas. One of the section of this Road run through Merv where right up to the VII century Zoroastrism, Buddhism, and Christianity coexisted in peace.
Zoroastrism was the first official religion in Merv. Scientist of the IX century Ahmed bin Abu Tahir Taifun informs in his book “The history of Baghdad” that it was exactly here where the last Sassanid King Yezdeger III brought “the Great holy fire” in 651when he was fleeing from Arabic pursuit and placed it in one of the temples – atashked. He also brought the library of precious manuscript in the Avestan and Middle Persian (Pahlavian) languages from the king treasury of the capital and other centre cities of Sassanid State. Archaeologists in Gyaur-Kala settlement discovered the remains of Mazdaist temple of “Great Holy fire” dated to the middle of VII century. At the same place, there was ancient Zoroastrian temple Kei-Mazruban that until Arabic invasion was the main city sacred place. The statues representing two man and two woman held the platform where “eternal fire” brought from sacred city of Zoroastrian Kerman was flaming. The sacred book “Avesta” written on 12 thousands golden plates was kept in the temple.
Relying on ancient sources, Arabic geographer of X – XI centuries Bin al-Fakih wrote: “There was big ancient house called Keyb-Marzuban in Merv. Reaching the height of a man, it comes up to the roof on four represented on its sides two men and two women. But some people came and said that their ancestor built the temple; they destroyed the house, took the wood from it and gold from images. In the year when it was destroyed, big disaster overtook the Merv and its settlements. The people of Merv insisted that it was talisman for prosperity and that the city and its people never experienced what happened.”
“Crown of the Earth”
This is the translation from Sanskrit of the name of Buddhist architectural sculptural religious structure – stupa. The composition of this structure is formed by the volume, mass and silhouette. One of such stupas decorated the largest Buddhist sanctuary of Ancient Merv.
It was built in honour of especially revered by Buddhist representative of Merv branch of Arshakids. The scientists dated the construction of the religious facility to the II – III century AC.
The cylindrical object with nine-metre diameter towered on the huge square platform 13 by 13 metres with the height of four meters in the southeast part of Gyaur-Kala settlement. It was enveloped by the spiral edging, which coils extended from the base to the dome. This unusual detail differed Merv stupa from similar ones. The crown of the cylindrical object was topped up with huge dome. The steep stairs led from the northern side to the top platform. The whole structure was painted in red, black and partially white colours.
There was a yard from the northern part of stupa, where column towered opposite the stairway. The five-metre statue of Buddha was place in front of the stairs. His face expressed the peace and spiritual immersion. The colour of the statue was repeatedly renewed, it was either pink, or yellow, or brownish red. Light canopy protecting the statue from precipitation was erected above it. Architectural complex of some kind of temple hostel was erected from the southern side of stupa. It was decorated with paintings made in bright blue, bright pink and pale yellow colours.
The spring of Buddhism particularly in Merv and in Central Asia in the whole at first were related with the presence of Indian factories in the city. According to one of the legends recorded in the Pali language, two merchants Tappasu and Bhallika, two brothers from Baktria left to meet Buddha and to become his disciples. Later they returned to Baktria and built the temple in honour of Buddha. However, this is just a legend, while historical facts witness that wide dissemination of Buddhism started during Kushan State, when the relations between India and Central Asia became stronger and even that Emperor Ashok confirmed Buddhism as state religion. Even though this great founder of the Empire did not made his subjects to adopt the Buddhist faith but his orders carved on the metal pillars set throughout the country induced people to live ethical way of life. The King followed these principles himself inspiring the others to adopt Buddha’s doctrine. Special patronage to Buddha’s doctrine was shown by King Kanishka.
Perhaps, this Buddhist complex was destroyed in the V century much probably during enemy raid. In 1962, archaeologists found the remains of stupa, the head of Buddha statue, and big decorated vase of almost half of meter height that was hidden in secret place among the ruins of the monastery. Hidden by the monks treasures such as blue-haired head of Buddha and ancient manuscripts in Sanskrit were kept for almost 1500 years.
The centre of Nestorian Metroplis
Right in the centre of Ancient Merv, in the northern-eastern corner of Gyaur-Kala settlement, the centre of Nestorian metropolis headed by the Metropolitan formed up in the V century. Numerous supporters of Constantinople’s bishop Nestorius, who was accused for heresy for his statements against Jesus deification, found sanctuary at this place. The temple built at the same time represented the rare type of early Christian church – single-nave basilica. This is one single spacious hall of “basilica” around 50 by 10 metres. The altar was located at the end wall of the hall. Formerly, the arches or vaults crossed the inner space of the temple. Like the other structures of Ancient Merv, time did not spare this indeed unique monument of spiritual culture but research of it gives many things to imagine the variety of people’s life of the city.
Only flowed lower walls remained from the building called today as “Haraba-kyoshk” that translated from the Turkmen language as “destroyed palace”. They hide the mysteries of the distant past and patiently wait for their researcher. Besides early Christian church, the scientists discovered Christian necropolis and remains of monastery.
According to the scientists, even during Arabic domination and later right up to Mongolian invasion, Merv was Christian scientific centre of Khorasan, Central Asia and whole Muslim East.
Among the outstanding scientists – Merv natives, the medieval chronicles mentioned the names of Christians - doctor, philosopher and mathematician Sahl Rabban and his son Ali bin Sahl Rabban as well as doctor Bin Matza who wrote valuable works on medicine and herbs.
Since the beginning of time, Merv was the centre of this thriving region. Its fortresses Erk-Kala, Gyaur Kala, Soutan Kala, Abdullhan-Kala Bayramalihan-Kala appeared one after another. But if one city perished slowly, then the other one died suddenly from intestine wars and forays of the neighbouring countries. The silence of the eternity lies on guttered walls, sometimes reaching 6 – 7 meters in width, and on the hills, reminding with the sadness on once majestic structures.
From antiquity until nowadays, the name of the city changed. In sacred book of Zoroastrians “Avesta” it is mentioned as Mouru, in Behistun inscription - under the name of “Margush country”, Greco-Roman authors called it Margiana. In medieval Persian and Arabic manuscripts, it was called Maru or Merv. At the same time, the city got special epithet “Shahyjan”, which is literally translated as “Soul of the kings”. In the period of medieval prosperity, it was one of the greatest cities in the world with population more than million people and won fame of “the city, the world is rest upon”.
The history of Ancient Merv symbolizes the image of mythological bird Phoenix that every time revived from the ashes. The age of ancient Merv can be identified rather relatively, as archaeological finds prove that oasis was inhabited long before existence of Erk-Kala aged approximately 2500 years. The remains of fortress walls with the height of 25 – 29 meters with clearly cut out towers and large slope remind about it. «Blessed region” this is how this land was called in the sacred book “Avesta”. Excellent bread, best raisins, dried melons, and the softest in the East cotton were exported from there.
In the IV century, BC Margush and whole Margiana was conquered by the army of Alexander Makedonian and the city became called Alexandria Margiana. After the death of the commander, this land entered the Seleucid Empire and its ruler Antiochus built the strongest fortress Antioch Margiana that remains rest within Gyaur-Kala boundaries. Everything was like from magic giants, the walls with height of 30 and width of 16 meters.
In the middle of III century BC, at the place of Antioch Margiana, when the region was under Parthian subordination, the new stronger 230 kilometres long, fortified wall was built there; more than 100 towers rose above its 6 meters width. Ancient Merv reached the high level of progress in the I-II centuries AC and succeeded until the first half of the III century AC during Sassanid rule. Even by the scale of the XXI century, it was the biggest city of Central Asia. The highest peak of its progress falls on XI – XII centuries, when the city became the capital of the Great Seljuks. Fortified wall known nowadays as Soultan-Kala was built according to the Melik-shakh order. That was exactly the period when the unique architectural works, which gave the ground to include Ancient Merv in UNESO World Heritage List, was risen.
How beautiful is Merv, the shelter of the Kings!
How beautiful is Merv, where flower garden springs!
How beautiful is Merv in winter and summer heat!
It is as beautiful in spring as in fall!
Who saw Merv, who settled in Merv,
Will he find happiness in another city!
And if one’s beloved lives in Merv,
The earth is full of woes without it!
The trees are paradise, the fruits – more charming than the houries,
The flowers are as the sun shines brightly in azure…
Wrote Persian poet Fahr ad-din Asad (Gorgani) in his poem “Vis and Ramin”.
But history seemed to be hurrying to its final act. In 1153, Merv was captured and brutally plundered by the nomadic Guzes. The city was partially restored when it entered the Khwarazm Shah State. But in 1221 Merv fell a pray of even more destructive invasion – that was the army of Genghis Khan. Almost all Merv’s inhabitants were killed in that battle. After that, many kings tried to restore the city but it could never reach its previous richness and magnificence.
Just partially, emir Timur’s son Shakhrukh rebuilt Merv 200 years after Mongolian invasion. During his time, due to the problems with water supply, the city was moved to the new place and its ruins are known as Abdulkhan-Kala nowadays. Another Timurids Mirza Sanjar expanded Merv and this territory received the name of Bayramalikhan-Kala.
Throughout next few centuries, violent fight went on, the city incurred raids and invasions either one ruler or another. In 1882, the Turkmens finally ousted the last conquerors the Bukharians and built their own fortress at rather distance from Bayramalikhan-Kala at new banks of the Murgab River. Thus the foundation of new city, currently Mary, territorially not connected with ancient settlements of Merv, was started. The phenomenon of Merv, the ancient city recognized by UNESCO World Heritage, closely associated with the first irrigation systems of the Bronze Age. Close proximity of the Murgab River and correct planning of irrigation system as well as the urge of Sultans to settle on Great Silk Road, later on favoured to construction of largest trade city that became one of the cultural centres of Central Asia. Today the old Merv is grandiose archaeological reserve.
Big Gyz-Kala
This name literally means “girl’s mansion” Gyz-Kala is typical example of palace castle of the local nobility of the early medieval. The mansion represents internal square yard with the rooms on two levels around it. All facades are mounted with corrugated walls.
The scientist cannot tell for sure about exact date of building of “girl’s fortress”. That is why every archaeological find becomes a desired artefact that slightly opens the veil of mystery. One of such unique finds was discovered in 2012 during archaeological excavations. It was female seal ring in the shape of a flower lily or tulip and cosmetic spade made in the form of sculptured image of goddess of water and fertility. Roundish face of the woman are framed with the hairs put together in a bunch on the head crown. The light cloak with the pleats on the belly is thrown over long dress. There is something resembling ear of crops or tree bunch in goddess’s left hand clasped to her breast. The image of the goddess judging by the luxury of her dress is close to iconography of Zoroastrian Anahit. “You can always see her, Ardvisuru Anahit, in the appearance of beautiful girl, strong, slim, girded, slender, and noble”, - written in Avesta.
Anahit from Merv serves as some kind of personal icon to whom her proprietress addressed for help and protection. The ring over the head indicates that the amulet was worn as a pendant or breast adornment. At the same time this was daily necessity item, the spade was an ear pick.
This find as if confirms the appropriateness of traditionally Turkmen name of the fortress Gyz-Kala and fine legend about beautiful princess who was loved for her beauty and mercy.
The king’s daughter protected and tended, and her beauty and tenderness were compared with rose bud. But once the fortune-teller came to the city and prophesied her an early death. Fear and horror stroke the king then, and to save her beloved beauty daughter, he ordered to build an impregnable fortress especially for her. It seemed to him that she would be totally safe, for he thought that the trouble could come only from wild cavalry of nomads. And of course, he couldn’t even think that he would become the reason of her early death himself.
Staying in the fortress, behind impregnable walls, the princess felt lonely as her father never let her know about the mystery of gloomy predictions. Then one day, to please somehow his favourite daughter and drive her sorrow away the king sent her the basket with grapes.
But it happens so the snake crept into the basket and coiled up as a spiral hid in bunches of grapes. And when the girl stretched herself for sweet berry the snake suddenly bit princess finger as an arrow. Even the best doctors could not save her life. When the king received this sad news, he died, as he could not survive the terrible grief.
Is this true or just a fairy tale but Gyz-Kala “girl’s mansion” remains one the unique monuments of Ancient Merv, attracting the travellers by its original architectonics, and researches of the past by its historical mysteries.
His glory shines like the sun
The most famous structure of Ancient Merv is Sultan Sanjar Mausouleum. Built in the middle of XII century, it became architectural pearl of the Great Seljuk epoch, and forever glorified the name of architect Muhammed bin Atsyz Sarahs.
Mausoleum is located in the centre of the Sultan Gala settlement and sometime ago was a part of ensemble of large royal facilities – the grand mosque and the palace. This majestic beauty became a symbol of prosperity of Seljuk State. Amazing harmony and the symmetry of proportions in architecture of Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum delight everyone. It has a cubic shape with walls 27 by 27 metres that are crowned by the dome with diameter of more than 17 metres. The dome was made from two levels and this circulating air within inter-dome space, by the architect’s project, should have to provide the necessary microclimate inside the building and preserve the construction. But only internal layer remained until nowadays. Three-level through galleries in the form of alternating openwork arches run under the dome. The dome symbolized the vault of heaven and seemed to be soaring in the air. The system of structural ribs forming spatial geometrical interlacing with eight-pointed star at the top is particularly original. The interior is decorated with geometric and epigraphic paintings made by blue and red colour on the white background. In European architecture such construction appeared after 300 years in the dome ceiling of famous Florentine cathedral built by architect Philippo Brunelleschi.
Sultan Sanjar ordered to build mausoleum in the 40cyears of XII century and termed it “Dar al-ahira” that translated as “House of afterlife”. Although people relate it with later period when Turkmen-Oguz captured Merv subjected it to looting and destroying while Sultan himself was taken prisoner. Saying for 2 years as prisoner, Sultan Sanjar prayed the Almighty all those time to help him to return to Merv. And, as people say, he gave an oath that if the God would hear him, then as a sign of gratitude he would build the most magnificent structure. But as a matter of fact, the Mausoleum was built before the Sultan escaped from the prison and returned to his ravaged capital being gravely ill man and was buried in the Mausoleum.
The Mongolians plundered the grave of Sanjar trying to find supposedly hidden treasure. The marble gravestone was set in the beginning of XX century and there is actually nothing buried in the grave. The remains of Sultan was reburied in unknown place during Mongolian invasion.
The history of Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum associated with a beautiful legend. It says that once the Sultan dreamt a beautiful peri and he felt in love with her. Having lost peace and sleepover, the Sultan decided to win her hand and heart by all means. But she remained adamant. After numerous persuasions, the heavenly beauty agreed but laid down 3 terms: never watch her brushing her hair, never watch her feet and never embrace her. Shall the Sultan breach the terms she would leave him forever, peri said.
The Sultan in love for sure agreed for everything to contemplate the heaven beauty every day. They lived happy life but the Sultan was always tormented with the thoughts about strange terms set by the beauty. But one day curiosity took over the promise and the Sultan broke his word. When in the evening before going to bed, heaven peri sat at the mirror to do her hair, she took off her head, put it on the golden dish and started brushing it with golden comb. Seeing that, the Sultan cried out involuntary and the peri disappeared on the spot. For few nights the Sultan was begging her for pardon and asked to come back, promising that he would never breach the oath again. So the heaven maid forgave him. After some time, the Sultan broke the word again and during the dance, he looked at her feet and discovered that she didn’t step but soar above the ground. Angry peri flew to the sky and it seemed to be forever. The Sultan became seized in deep grief and unable to bear the anguish, asked his priests to bring his wife back by their prayers. The ecclesiastics begged and got the pardon for him by fervent prayers from the heaven peri and she returned to the Sultan. Few more happy years passed through, and again strong curiosity took over the Sultan and he embraced the heaven beauty’s waist discovering that she was immaterial. For this time, the heaven beauty could not forgive the Sultan and decided to leave him forever despite his passionate entreaties. Flying away to the sky she said: “If you want to see me you should build the highest and most beautiful mosque and leave the hole in its dome through that I will appear to you every Holly Friday. The Sultan did so. When the construction was completed, he saw his wife through the hole. Such visits recurred until the Sultan felt his imminent death. Last time the heaven beauty appeared in the dome of the mosque and threw golden comb but it stuck between the bricks. The Sultan ordered to get the comb, put it in box and insert it to the hole.
As historians say, even if Merv would disappear without a trace, if there would not be any historical data indicative of its glory but only Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar would remain, it is the best evidence of Merv’s greatness. The historical realia is that the mausoleum was under reconstruction throughout all its centuries-old history. Last residence of the great ruler was surrounded by the halo of holiness preserving it from destructive forays of conquerors but the ruthless time was washing away architectural details of the tomb and new generations of Merv’s citizens revived the monument time after time, bringing new details in its original appearance.
For many centuries, mausoleum is a place for pilgrimage of believers and attracts many tourists. The Arabic inscription on the facade of mausoleum says: "This place is ennobled by the remains of the one who was called Sulatan Sanjar from Seljuk descendants… He was as fair as Alexander the Great; he was the patron of scientists and poets and was accepted by Islamic world in the state of prosperity and happiness owing to sciences and arts".
“The great holy fire” of Kei-Mazruban
Throughout the thousands of years, the Great Silk Road ran from Asia to Europe. Tying up different countries and peoples, it connected their material and spiritual cultures, promoted dissemination of religious and philosophic ideas. One of the section of this Road run through Merv where right up to the VII century Zoroastrism, Buddhism, and Christianity coexisted in peace.
Zoroastrism was the first official religion in Merv. Scientist of the IX century Ahmed bin Abu Tahir Taifun informs in his book “The history of Baghdad” that it was exactly here where the last Sassanid King Yezdeger III brought “the Great holy fire” in 651when he was fleeing from Arabic pursuit and placed it in one of the temples – atashked. He also brought the library of precious manuscript in the Avestan and Middle Persian (Pahlavian) languages from the king treasury of the capital and other centre cities of Sassanid State. Archaeologists in Gyaur-Kala settlement discovered the remains of Mazdaist temple of “Great Holy fire” dated to the middle of VII century. At the same place, there was ancient Zoroastrian temple Kei-Mazruban that until Arabic invasion was the main city sacred place. The statues representing two man and two woman held the platform where “eternal fire” brought from sacred city of Zoroastrian Kerman was flaming. The sacred book “Avesta” written on 12 thousands golden plates was kept in the temple.
Relying on ancient sources, Arabic geographer of X – XI centuries Bin al-Fakih wrote: “There was big ancient house called Keyb-Marzuban in Merv. Reaching the height of a man, it comes up to the roof on four represented on its sides two men and two women. But some people came and said that their ancestor built the temple; they destroyed the house, took the wood from it and gold from images. In the year when it was destroyed, big disaster overtook the Merv and its settlements. The people of Merv insisted that it was talisman for prosperity and that the city and its people never experienced what happened.”
“Crown of the Earth”
This is the translation from Sanskrit of the name of Buddhist architectural sculptural religious structure – stupa. The composition of this structure is formed by the volume, mass and silhouette. One of such stupas decorated the largest Buddhist sanctuary of Ancient Merv.
It was built in honour of especially revered by Buddhist representative of Merv branch of Arshakids. The scientists dated the construction of the religious facility to the II – III century AC.
The cylindrical object with nine-metre diameter towered on the huge square platform 13 by 13 metres with the height of four meters in the southeast part of Gyaur-Kala settlement. It was enveloped by the spiral edging, which coils extended from the base to the dome. This unusual detail differed Merv stupa from similar ones. The crown of the cylindrical object was topped up with huge dome. The steep stairs led from the northern side to the top platform. The whole structure was painted in red, black and partially white colours.
There was a yard from the northern part of stupa, where column towered opposite the stairway. The five-metre statue of Buddha was place in front of the stairs. His face expressed the peace and spiritual immersion. The colour of the statue was repeatedly renewed, it was either pink, or yellow, or brownish red. Light canopy protecting the statue from precipitation was erected above it. Architectural complex of some kind of temple hostel was erected from the southern side of stupa. It was decorated with paintings made in bright blue, bright pink and pale yellow colours.
The spring of Buddhism particularly in Merv and in Central Asia in the whole at first were related with the presence of Indian factories in the city. According to one of the legends recorded in the Pali language, two merchants Tappasu and Bhallika, two brothers from Baktria left to meet Buddha and to become his disciples. Later they returned to Baktria and built the temple in honour of Buddha. However, this is just a legend, while historical facts witness that wide dissemination of Buddhism started during Kushan State, when the relations between India and Central Asia became stronger and even that Emperor Ashok confirmed Buddhism as state religion. Even though this great founder of the Empire did not made his subjects to adopt the Buddhist faith but his orders carved on the metal pillars set throughout the country induced people to live ethical way of life. The King followed these principles himself inspiring the others to adopt Buddha’s doctrine. Special patronage to Buddha’s doctrine was shown by King Kanishka.
Perhaps, this Buddhist complex was destroyed in the V century much probably during enemy raid. In 1962, archaeologists found the remains of stupa, the head of Buddha statue, and big decorated vase of almost half of meter height that was hidden in secret place among the ruins of the monastery. Hidden by the monks treasures such as blue-haired head of Buddha and ancient manuscripts in Sanskrit were kept for almost 1500 years.
The centre of Nestorian Metroplis
Right in the centre of Ancient Merv, in the northern-eastern corner of Gyaur-Kala settlement, the centre of Nestorian metropolis headed by the Metropolitan formed up in the V century. Numerous supporters of Constantinople’s bishop Nestorius, who was accused for heresy for his statements against Jesus deification, found sanctuary at this place. The temple built at the same time represented the rare type of early Christian church – single-nave basilica. This is one single spacious hall of “basilica” around 50 by 10 metres. The altar was located at the end wall of the hall. Formerly, the arches or vaults crossed the inner space of the temple. Like the other structures of Ancient Merv, time did not spare this indeed unique monument of spiritual culture but research of it gives many things to imagine the variety of people’s life of the city.
Only flowed lower walls remained from the building called today as “Haraba-kyoshk” that translated from the Turkmen language as “destroyed palace”. They hide the mysteries of the distant past and patiently wait for their researcher. Besides early Christian church, the scientists discovered Christian necropolis and remains of monastery.
According to the scientists, even during Arabic domination and later right up to Mongolian invasion, Merv was Christian scientific centre of Khorasan, Central Asia and whole Muslim East.
Among the outstanding scientists – Merv natives, the medieval chronicles mentioned the names of Christians - doctor, philosopher and mathematician Sahl Rabban and his son Ali bin Sahl Rabban as well as doctor Bin Matza who wrote valuable works on medicine and herbs.
