As per the tradition, we set off from beautiful and hospitable Ashgabat. We were pleased meeting ‘sacred’ grey cranes, which were feeding on the background of green fields under crops, next to Chulysh settlement next to the capital. On the floods, we met black-winged stilt, marsh sandpipers decorated with brownish dots, black-headed gull, slender-billed gull and one of the smallest sandpipers in the world - red-necked phalarope.
Beautiful shelducks were splashing in the Central Karakum drain collector and small terns, which were named due to their size, were flying above looking for small fish. We have crossed two unique desert landscapes – Central and Zaunguz Karakums, before we met our colleagues from the Reserve. Significant difference in plant vegetation – blooming and scenting south and slumbering north awaiting for spring moisture with green shrubs, catches the eye.
We were pleased to see the rarest endemic of our country – Turkmen dendrostellera from the Red Book, which habitat is limited by 10-kilometre sport along Ashgabat – Dashoguz highway, to the north of natural attraction “The Shine of Karakums”. Our botanic colleague has counted 70 plants in good condition in the state of blooming and fruiting, which is a visual example of successful measures taken in Turkmenistan for protection of representatives of desert flora.
Short rest and we drive two vehicles toward Mal-yab settlement and further toward Shasenem Reserve along the collector with the same name, which was named after the stronghold on the Silk Road.
The drain collector and road along the collector roll across dry salt flat and after several minutes, southeastern end of Gyarkyra appears on horizon. It is crowned with the remains of living and fortress constructions of ancient Gyaur- Kala, which were built of clay and remained in good condition.
Gyaur-Kala in Dashoguz Velayat is not known as its antique twin from stone rocks built in Murgab Oasis but also deserves attention of historian. It is waiting patiently for a long time for its future as a facility of one of the route of eco-tourism, which will definitely cover Shasenem Reserve.
We have stopped for a break at the low black saxaul grove southwest to the old fortress next to the collector and small channel running away from it. Short walk on coastal shrubs, fuss among herons, pheasants at the shallow water, screams of little owl, which has woken up and getting ready for night hunting, small birds of our deserts like streaked scrub warbler, crested lark, blue-cheeked bee-eater… The day is coming to an end.
Spring windless night has flown under the sounds of numerous mosquitos, however the repellent stopped their attempt to make night ritual… The bird choir started singing serenade of new day the moment the dawn has started and the voices of yesterday singers were joined by tender sopranos of willow warbler, alts of cuckoos and baritones of lonely rooks… Quick breakfast, collecting of belongings and we set of again.
We kept following our drain collector and having rounded southern spurs of Tyarim-Gaya heights, we have stopped at 127 meter height hill. Common kestrel is flying in blue sky looking for big insects and other small victims. Vigilant magpie chitters in thin tugay bushes. Ubiquitous Afghan starlings lurk swarm along clay slopes. They have appeared in Amudarya Valley more than 100 years ago and since then almost reached Caspian coast.
Goodbye, Tyarim-Gaya, we look forward the next pearl in the necklace of Shasenem and Kaplankyr Reserves, water glade of Zengi-baba Lake among sand plains and heights of the desert.
